This problem of both indicator lights flashing together is usually caused by a bad K6 (emergency warning relay) under the dash.
Test by unplugging the 3-pin relay located on top of the relay panel bolted to the windshield wiper motor.
Check to see if there is 12V power on the light blue wire. If it has power, replace the relay with a C7WY-10B926-BR relay.
The symptom of the indicator lights failing to flash is a weak electrical system or a bad (or out of calibration) K7 relay. The K7 relay is calibrated for four 1157 bulbs to be turned on at full brightness before it will trigger the dash indicator light. The fact that yours works for a few flashes indicates that the battery/alternator current is dropping below the threshold level. It gets worse when the brake lights, headlights, and/or AC is on. The replacement electronic unit, C7WY-13A366-CR is not sensitive to the alternator output and will work with either LED or 1157 bulbs.
Thank you sir, I also downloaded the wiring diagram to aid in getting everything right. Will be a day or so before I can get to work hands on with it but I will let you know my results later.
Okay hereās my problems. Want to know where to start. I have a 1970. All running lights work. Brake lights work on pass side. Rear pass side turn signal comes on steady. Front drivers side turn signal and markers come on and are steady as well. No drivers side rear turn signal at all. All emergency flashers work except for drivers rear light. The flashers blink unsteadily though and donāt always work. Thanks for any inputš
No output on all bulbs of a given side is typically caused by a bad turn signal switch contact or fried (oxidized) connector pin at the turn signal switch connector. Use a self-powered test light or VOM on the lowest ohms scale to test switch according to the table in the guide. Further turn signal switch testing details can be found in this guide: http://www.thuntek.net/cougars_unlimited/TurnSignalSwDiagnosis.pdf
Intermittent flashing can be caused by a bad flasher can. Test by temporarily swapping the emergency flasher with the turn signal flasher.
Note: With 1157 bulbs, a 552 thermal flasher can be used for the emergency flasher. However, it cannot be used for the turn signal flasher because they flash too fast. If your tail lights sequence during emergency flasher operation, you cannot use a 552 thermal flasher for the emergency flashers.
Hey, everything is new in my system, 69 car, it worked few hundred miles but now only inner lights flash, both sides. Everything else works, emergency lights work correctly. Then i tried to swap my emergency flasher can to sequential flasher and now it works! Not as smooth as it should but all three light flash correctly. Emergency flasher can is 552/536 and sequential flasher is D0WY-13350-AR4. My instructions says that i should have D0WY-13350-AR. Do i have a wrong flasher? If yes, why it worked at beginning? Or is it right but it just broke after 200 milesā¦ I dont know what else it could be? Sorry bad english, iĀ“m from FInland
I tried emergency lights with that electronic flasher can and they workā¦ Then i again tried sequentials with that electronic flasher can and only inner lights flashā¦ How this is possible? No leds, new turn signal switch, new sequential box, new electronic flasher, new bulbs and everything else worksā¦ Weird
You have the correct flasher. The D0WY-13350-AR4 is the current production version of the flasher to be used in Cougars with the C9WY-13A366-AR sequencer and 1157 bulbs.
Are you testing it with the engine running? What is your battery voltage?
Measure the voltage at the orange wire pin (input to the flasher) during turn signal operation.
The electronic flasher will not work correctly if the load causes the voltage drop below 10V - it will reset, starting the sequence over.
Well today i noticed that sequentials start work when i give it throttleā¦ battery shows at idle 12.7v and when i give it rpm over 14v. I have brand new alternator and voltage regulator. But why sequentials dont work 12.7v? And why it doesnt charge at idleā¦ belts is tight and new wires
My turn signal switch needs replacement as the contact points have been burned. Iāve ordered a new one but it didnāt fit into the steering column.
All the switches that are being offered for the 68ā cougar are different than the burned switch that was in the car originally.
Can anyone tell from which car this switch comes from (to me it looks like the switch they used in the F-series and Bronco). Iām starting to suspect that somewhere along the life if this car they replaced the whole steering column with one from a different model.
Your switch is not a 1967-69 Cougar switch. It is hard to identify from only one picture but it does have Ford TS switch wiring colors.
It appears to only have one horn contact post similar to a 1965-72 Ford truck switch.
Your column is a tilt-away column so I suspect that the switch was replaced at some time in the past.
After verifying that you have a Cougar steering wheel, I recommend replacing it with a 1968 Cougar Tilt switch.
Note: the current 1968 Tilt switches are replacements are for a 1968 Thunderbird and have two extra wires: brown and yellow/black.
These wires are not used on a Cougar. Connect the wires according to the diagram on my website: http://www.thuntek.net/cougars_unlimited/1967-68_TS_Connectors.PDF
I have a 70 XR7 Conv that I finally got back on the road. On the left side, the center bulb does not operate for brake and turn signal. I swapped bulbs with outer light and no changeā¦ bulb works in different position. I read that one bulb not flashing is typically the sequencer but I think that may be with the brake light working. I am going to start tracing back the wires. Last week when I pulled the center bulb out, I heard a buzzing in one of the four switching relays. Itās not doing that anymore but I have been trying to clean contacts so maybe it was just a ground issue. I donāt mind purchasing the solid state sequencer but thought Iād try and get some feedback. Thanks in advanceā¦
Thanks for the response guys. I wasnāt aware that I had a tilt column in my vehicle. Iāve ordered the correct switch now. Next thing to tackle is to find out why the tilt column isnāt engaging when I open the door. Unfortunately the previous owners made a mess of the electrical system.
If a bulb is not working on either of the outer two lights, there is a problem with the sequencer or the bulb socket.
The original LittleFuse relays used on the late 1970 & up sequencers often fail where the contact arm breaks off. If the arm shorts to the case, this is not good. These relays will buzz when there is a short that causes the voltage to drop below the relay trigger voltage.
I recommend replacing the original controller with a C9WY-13A366-AL sequential controller that will work with either 1157 or LED bulbs. The power transistors used eliminate the need for the relays.
These relays will buzz when there is a short that causes the voltage to drop below the relay trigger voltage.