The Snowball Saga - '68 Standard Revitalization Project

Yours are a bit easier too with the centers being all painted. No excuse now :sunglasses:

Thanks! For being a terrible planner in all other aspects of my life, at least restoring old car parts is something I can usually handle.

Cheers Phillip! I totally agree. I think that shows how a ‘creative type’ approaches car projects differently. There are other folks who are the exact opposite, they like working on the mechanical stuff but hate the aesthetic work and don’t have the patience for it. Glad we can all help each other out. And you bet I’ll be taking some nice pictures when it’s all done!

News update: I just got word that my tires are on the way from Diamond Back, and should be here next week. I’m excited! I need to finish these suckers up and give the paint some time to cure before mounting them up. So with that, on to the silver. Update coming momentarily.

So all along I’ve used one wheel as my “test wheel” to try out painting techniques before doing the other 3. So far it’s worked out perfectly and I haven’t changed anything. But the silver portion is the most complex part, and things are definitely going to change this time.

For my first attempt, I thought I would try the “paint everything and wipe away the excess later” technique. This general idea worked out great on things like the taillight grilles, so I had a little experience with it. So I made a masking device for the outer rim, cleaned and prepped the painted areas, and wiped some chrome polish (nevr-dull) onto the chrome in an effort to not let the paint stick well to those areas.


Then I followed the instructions on the can - VHT recommends 2 light coats followed by 1 medium coat. Either I wasn’t light enough on the trigger, or 3 coats is just too much, because this ended up pretty thick. You can see one initial attempt at wiping away the paint while it was still wet.


I dipped a cloth in paint thinner and tried removing most of the excess while it was still soft. It was tough going at first, but eventually got easier.



I stopped at the above picture, thinking that I might be able to refine the edge better when it had a chance to dry more. So I put it aside and started plotting how to do things differently.

I didn’t love this wipe-off technique. It was kind of a pain, and I wasn’t liking the edges I was getting. Part of that is probably the paint being too thick, so I’ll try to address that next time. But also I wanted to try to better replicate what the factory did.

I kind of rejected the most obvious solution of just using masking tape, as the lines would be too crisp and I didn’t want to scratch the chrome with a razor blade while trimming tape. Also it’s a lot of work do to that to every wheel. So I figured the best way to replicate what the factory did would be to make stencils of some kind. There’s no magic way to do this, as far as I know, so I just took some parchment paper from the kitchen and made a rough outline to start with (using a different wheel of course).


Once I cut that out and got it pretty close, I transferred the shape to poster board and cut it out, then further refined it with scissors until I was pretty happy with it. Folded in half to get it more symmetrical.


Then I used a junk vinyl LP as a template to cut out a circle, about the right size to mask most of the wheel center.


This led to what I’ll call the “Mk. I” stencils.


It wasn’t until I made a full set of 5 of these that I realized the openings were a bit too big. The reality is that they need to be a little smaller, because the paint overspray is going to get under the edges. However, there was a benefit to cutting out these “actual size” pieces… coming in next post.

Now that I had these little “positive” pieces, they could help me out on the first wheel. I used them to refine the tricky outer edges. Also I upgraded my wiping juice to acetone.




Definitely not perfect, but much closer to how it’s supposed to look. After much painstaking wiping, I could call this first wheel “as done as it’s gonna get”. Here’s a comparison with the original silver (left) and new silver (right). The new silver is a bit brighter.


Here’s a shot in the sun. You can still tell some of the edges are a little wonky, but I can’t complain too much, it looks pretty nice.


Finally, here’s a look at the Mk. II Stencils that I just finished up last night. You can tell that the side edges are in further, and the bottom edge lines up better. The top could still come down a bit, but it’s pretty easy to wipe that area with acetone to remove extra paint, and I’m not super stoked about making a third set.



As of writing, this is up to speed. I’ll probably attempt my next wheel with these today. Fingers crossed!

Dang that looks tedious!

But oh so worth it.

Agreed on both counts!


So, the verdict is in: this method works well! Here’s when I was all masked up and ready to spray:


And here’s after the 3 coats. I went much lighter on the first 2 coats especially, and still somewhat conservative on the 3rd, while still making sure I had full coverage.


After waiting a couple hours for it to dry sufficiently, I took off all the masking devices and found I had definitely achieved soft edges. Maybe too soft, but the area was just about right so that I had room to clean it up.



Maybe the best part is that the only cleanup needed was to do a quick pass on the chrome with Nevr-Dull, which took care of the little dots of overspray and helped define the edges better.



I’ll probably still use one of my little mask pieces to define the lower / outer edges better, which will probably go much easier since the paint isn’t as thick as the first one. I just hope they all look consistent with each other. But I’m happy enough with the method to proceed and do the remaining 2 wheels this way. Just have to do one at a time. It’s nice that these stencils are reusable, it feels like I’m saving time even though it took a while to make them.

So the goal is to finish these up in the next day or so, give them some time to cure, get the new tires mounted next week, and take some nice finished pics. I’ve also entered in my first “real” car show since finishing the resto, coming up on Oct. 10, so I’m looking forward to having these on the car for that.

Now I’m off to paint wheel #3 :sunglasses:

As always, GREAT job, Andrew. Man, these rims are going to look so cool once mounted on the car with those new red wall Diamondbacks! :sunglasses:

Looks correct from here. Nice work.

Thanks! They’re going to be white walls actually, but should look great nonetheless. I’m looking forward to the transformation.

Thanks Royce, that means something coming from you.

Looks awesome Andrew. Can’t wait to see them mounted up. Cheers.

Great work and dig the creativity and patience to building templates. The pay off is in the results you have achieved!

I recently cleaned up a garage kept set with under 40k miles and you would be surprised how much overspray occurred from the factory when they painted the 5 pies originally.
67cin23.jpg

Is that from the Cinnamon Frost 67 GT? Interesting to see that the paint doesn’t go beyond the “windows” on this example.

Another example that shows that most of our cars end up being “over restored”
67cin1.jpg

Guess what arrived today!


I think they look perfect. Nice simple sidewall, stripe is the perfect width and position. Stoked to see them all mounted up and on the car. I took them to the tire shop today, and made sure the guy there knew about the “lug centric” balance needs of these old school wheels. Thanks to Rich “Sixty-EightCougar” for messaging me with a heads up about that. The first shop I went to didn’t know what I was talking about or didn’t have the right adapter to balance from the lugs. Anyway, they should be ready to pick up tomorrow.

Here’s the last shot before these wheels & tires become one:

You have been agonizing over this choice since you were a kid! Glad you pulled the trigger, those will look great.

Those are going to look great on your Cougar Andrew. I can’t wait to see the pictures.

Tires are mounted and balanced! Looking really good.


So when I got them home, naturally I thought I could just screw on the center caps and get them mounted on the car. Then, the joy of reproduction parts reared its head one more time. I should have remembered the issues with these center caps, but a couple years out of the game and you tend to forget things.

My set of Scott Drake center caps didn’t come with all the necessary hardware, so that was the first problem. They only included 2 star washers, which didn’t make any sense as you’d need at least 8. There were 8 screws included, so 2 per cap, even though each cap has 4 threaded holes (so you could use 16 total if you wanted to). So in my excitement to get these together I thought, well, maybe the washers are optional if they only bothered to include two.

My first attempt at installing a cap without washers resulted in (1) the screws being just long enough to gouge the black painted background and (2) simply trying to tighten them enough to stop the cap from rattling resulted in the two halves falling apart.



What followed was much inappropriate language, and I thought it was totally ruined. Once I took a moment to calm down and consider the problem, I managed to use a black paint pen to flow some paint into the gouges I had created. This actually worked very well and hid the problem enough that nobody will notice.



After this I was able to reattach the backing plate, which is held on with several weak little tabs. More on that later. I then went to the hardware store to see if I could fill in the deficiencies of what was included in the kit. Unfortunately they didn’t have enough of the correct star washers, so I ended up getting regular lock washers. I think they’ll provide a little extra clearance anyway, to avoid gouging the black paint again. I also thought I might try to use 4 screws per cap, so I picked up the closest thing I could find, #10 sheet metal screws. If I use these I’ll have to hack off the pointy ends.


So this was going to be my proposed setup. Screw, lock washer, and blue thread locker as a little extra insurance. I proceeded to attempt to install the same cap again this way.


It almost worked. I was just about to bask in the glory of successful problem solving.


But guess what? The dumb thing blew apart again as I was snugging it down. This time I didn’t gouge the paint, so I don’t think the screws made contact with the “front” of the cap. I think it’s just the way these are designed - when you’re pulling the two halves together, the little tabs can’t handle it, and they let go. This is a look at how much the screws stick out, I think this clearance is ok.


Here’s a look at the problematic little tabs that hold things together, after reuniting the halves for the second time.


By this time I was done messing around. So I called up my good friend JB to see if he had any ideas. He did.


I went ahead and did this to all 4 caps. I think it’s good insurance. When you look at those tabs, you can see why they can fail. Pretty flimsy design. The only downside to permanently epoxying them together is that I won’t be able to touch up the black paint if I have another gouging issue. Hopefully that won’t happen again.

Anyway, curing time is 15 hours so I should be fine to try again to install the caps this afternoon. Fun times!

Hope it works for you. Makes me glad I bought NOS when I had the chance.

Those caps aren’t cheap either, wish Scott Drake would get their act together with these.