Suspension setup for road course/street

Setting up the 67 for street and some road course racing. Working from a clean slat I will be going with a four link rear suspension. Coil over strut front keeping the shock towers. Rack and pinion steering.
a few question for some of the road course racers an such.

  1. Now I’m looking at the TCI total cost involved rear setup. Thoughts, pro’s/ con’s http://www.ebay.com/itm/TCI-1967-or-1968-Mercury-Cougar-Torque-Arm-Rear-Suspension-/190414915701?#ht_1391wt_1133

  2. For the front I’m really undecided yet. Looking at total control http://www.autoworksparts.com/tcp_coilover_conversion.htm or the system from RRs http://www.autoworksparts.com/rrs_front_coilovers.htm. Thoughts on what would work best?

  3. Rack & pinion should I go with a manual rack or power? Looking at Total control racks or Randalls.

Are you going to sub-frame it? 1967’s only have the one torque box.

I think that Cougar Bill is the resident Cougar Road Racer.

Brian, I would explore the manual rack and pinion with the electric steering assist. There is a company called EPAS Performance. http://www.usautoperformance.com/epas/
They have an upcoming magazine feature coming out.

Another place to peruse would be Cobra Automotive. http://www.cobraautomotive.com/about/about_cobra_automotive.html

One of the reason I’m looking at the TCI setup is it ties the front and rear frames together. Also ties it across which will give it some lateral stiffness I’m thinking. I’m also welding in a torque box on the passenger side. Going to stiffen up the towers as well. Going to fab up my own pieces of metal to enforce the towers.

The EPAS is neat, but would add a lot of cost. I think if I go with the right rack I wouldn’t need EPAS.

A lot of cool stuff on the Cobra page and I’m sure, very pricey as well. I’m not trying to stay in the vintage category and want to go away from trying to improve the stock suspension and go with new technology.

If you take it slowly, you can add a lot of strength by welding up the floor joints which are spot welded together from the factory.

I’d use the leaf springs and add a panhard bar, unless you want to get more tire under it. You can weld in frame connectors and do a cage. Then it’s rock solid.

But, I’ve heard good things about the rear setup you’re asking about here.
Never installed one though.

What do you guys think about the Heidts set up that Justin has shown? He is getting ready to install in his 69 soon. :poke:

THANKS FOR THE POKE OLDWOOD! if your not opposed to cutting out the shock towers our pro-g front kit has what your after.
http://www.heidts.com/part/64-70-mustang-pro-g-front-track-suspension-wide-track/
if your not wanting to remove shock towers, the chris alston chassis works parts are awesome(tcp)
the cpp mini sub is another good option
http://www.mustangandfords.com/techarticles/suspension/1311_classic_performance_products_suspension_upgrade/

i actually have the cpp upper arms for my car and they are a decent product, the only thing i dont like is they dont come with greaseable ball joint.

something to consider about our (heidts) prog 4 link, our kit does not require you to remove a section of the floor like the tcp canted 4link. and ours is a parallel compared to a triangulated setup, we do offer a triangulated setup for the 66-67 fairlane which will fit our cats
http://www.heidts.com/part/66-67-ford-fairlane-comet-rear-4-link-suspension/

for those who have not seen it, the link to the prog 4 link for now is on
http://www.mercurycougar.net/forums/showthread.php?70186-Direct-fit-4-link-interest/page2

post #19
we had issues with the new web site and the pro g 4 links did not seem to make it onto the site






justin

Darn nice parts, man.

I wouldn’t use the RRS strut front end. You will get better handling with upper and lower control arms like the total control products set up

http://www.totalcontrolproducts.com/fcoc-fd.html

The RRS has some nice stuff, but very pricey here in the usa. I like the idea of a sealed bearing vs a spindle. I can see where that would be stronger with less flex. I looked into Maier as well, but don’t like their shock mount setup to the upper arm vs the lower. I’ve pretty much decided on TCI three link rear and TCP front kit. need to talk to Justin yet on Heidts products. What is better for road track, power rack or manual?

Well old school ideas here. Oh, and low cost too.

Boss 302 Chassis mod book. It has stage 1,2, & 3 modifications. All pretty easy to do. All work very well.

Just as the Viper guy in the video!

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=w7_FSn8W1Q4

That is a 69 XR-7 w full interior and a killer stereo system w/ 6 speakers, subwoofer and 3 amps. So, very heavy Cat!

The mods are basic- Lower upper arm mounting points (Shelby drop), bent & reinforced factory A-arms, weld in plates under the arms and big sway bars.

Brakes are factory booster & such (no rear disc or brand name parts Baer, Wilwood, ect) I do use Porterfield pads

Sub frame connectors round out the mods…

For the money I just saved you, buy a ticket and come out to Colorado for a test drive.!!!

June 29Th High Plains Raceway

Aug 23 State Patrol Track

Sept 27Th High Plains again!


If your still set on spending big bucks try this site

http://www.eps-hane.com/

P.S. Walt was just in ICU…Talked w/ Chip (his son) today and he is out of ICU and making major strides to getting out of the hospital.