if you want to rule out the “Eliminator” test car possibility (you will have to do it some time or another).
the printed circuit board on the back of the instrument cluster I think has a date on it?
maybe someone else will chime in on this.
but I think removal of dash pad is required?
Well…I’m already greasy so I might as well try! …and the dash pad is??
Also is the 30818 number the serial number?
While you’re looking, it would be quite interesting to know the date code for the hood. It should be stamped somewhere on the underside, in a format that looks like: “7 15 C3”
The first digit (or pair of digits) indicates the month. The second pair (or single) the day. In the third pair, the letter indicates the stamping plant, and the digit the shift. There are variations, but that’s the most common format. Common plant codes are: A Chicago, B Buffalo, C Cleveland, D Dearborn, M Monroe (MI) and W Woodhaven (MI.)
Year is typically not indicated, but can generally be determined based on the model year of the vehicle.
There is not a date stamp on the hood.
October 19 Dearborn 2nd shift?
If we assume this is the original hood:
10 19D2, Oct 19th is 9 days before the car was scheduled to be built (scheduled Oct 28 with actual build date Nov. 4, 1968)
but this particular one was not set up for ram air as indicated by both the Marti Report and original invoice
Then what?!
hinges are not part of the hood and bolt on, so you can assume nothing
The date code on the hood maybe covered up when it was re-painted. if so it would need to be looked at much closer or possibly striped.
if I remember correctly look on bottom of hood on both edges and or center front.
The dash pad is the top black padded piece on the top of the dash area. It extends from the one side of the car to the other. It is not too hard to remove. If you got the starter off you can do the dash pad. You will not get greasy but you might get a sticky substance on your hands, the area on the underside of the pad above the instrument cluster and the passenger side sometimes oozes out a sticky residue.
You need to remove the plastic pieces on each end of the dash, 2 screws each. Then you need to remove the 2 plastic pieces on each side of the radio. You need to remove the radio knobs and then the face plate going around the radio and heater controls. With those off you can remove the 2 plastic pieces. Next you need to remove the plastic piece that goes above the steering column and just below the instrument cluster. It helps to drop the steering column some to get that plastic part off. With those 5 plastic pieces removed you will then see exposed screws holding the pad in place. There will also be exposed screws that go into the lower edge of the pad above the glovebox and screws that go into the front of the pad in the defroster duct vents. With all those screws remove the pad should come off. Being that it has been a long time since it was off it might take a little pulling to get it loose. If your car has a clock on the passenger side you will need to reach in behind the pad once you get it a little loose to unplug the clock. I have faith, you can do it.
Where did you get the number 30818? Off the starter?
Randy Goodling
CCOA #95
Date code on my '69 Eliminator hood is on the outermost brace, driver’s side, half-way between the hinge and front lip. I’d look closely at that area.
These cars didn’t receive a “serial number” per se, but each was assigned a unique Vehicle Identification Number (VIN.) The last six digits represent the consecutive unit production number. Cougar consecutive numbers started at 500000, with the last five digits resetting each model year. So to get the car’s actual production number for the 1969 model year, ignore the 5. In your case, the car’s consecutive production number is 16789. That’s about as close to a serial number as you’re going to get. But the number doesn’t mean much without the rest of the VIN to put it in context.
Randy, the dash sounds more difficult than the starter!! I started but I have to move the car away from the wall in order to open the passengers door.
Her’s a picture of where I found that number. Number is on the front of the block blue numbers.
Here’s a thought:
The June '69 issue of Hot Rod features a road test of a Cougar equipped with the two-speed “Streep” (Street/Strip) rear axle. They generally liked it, and the article strongly implied that it was soon to be a regular production option. Of course that never happened, but the article also states that the Cougar they tested was one of six test cars so equipped. No information is provided about the other five, and to my knowledge none have ever surfaced. 16789 seems to fit the criteria, though.
We know they would have been relatively early production cars, because the Eliminator show car (a converted XR-7) equipped with the Streep axle was already being shown as of December '68. You’d want the biggest, most powerful engine in the line-up, because if it can stand up to that, it’ll live behind any of the other available engines. A standard, low option car would do, because you don’t need tinted glass or a fancy interior for testing a rear axle. But you’d want a center console, because you’d need to make sure the lever to engage/disengage the second ratio fit with a console installed. You wouldn’t bother to order a limited slip or optional axle ratio, because the whole rear end is just going to be replaced anyway. And the “Production Engineering” Division sounds like the right place to send a car for installation and testing of a new rear axle that’s being considered as an factory option.
Pure speculation of course, but in my opinion this car checks all the right boxes to have been one of the six. Real curious now if there’s any indication of a patched cut-out or any other modifications to the transmission tunnel.
The dash pad removal is really not too bad but, yes, you will need to be able to fully open both doors to do the job. There is one screw on each of the outer plastic edge pieces that goes straight into the metal lower dash frame. You will not be able to remove that screw without opening the door.
I do not know what the numbers are for yet. Are they cast into the block? Or are they stamped into the block? Are they on a separate metal tag?
Randy Goodling
CCOA #95
Tell me what I should look for one the transmission. Thank you for the insight!
I found the previous owner! Gotta love small town living. I stopped by his house and left him a note and a picture of the car when Ed bought! Fingers crossed he’ll call soon!
You are pointing at the water pump and the area it has casting numbers. I think it is a aftermarket replacement by the number you gave.
Great story and I am proud of you getting dirty to help find out what your Cougar has in it
Transmission tunnel. Look for anything that looks non-factory, but specifically any sign that an extra hole may have been cut for a control lever to extend into the passenger compartment. Most likely patched over now. I’'d expect it to be somewhere from about 6" to a foot behind the factory shifter opening, but that’s just an educated guess. I’ve never seen one. If yours checks out, it’ll be the only one known to exist. So its a long shot, but it costs nothing to look.
