strange thing is, where is blue paint? Other panels did not look to be stripped before last re-paint. also 3 months is a long time for production line to use a fender.
Blue paint was on the hood. Obviously replaced because it wasn’t set up for ram air like Marti Report stated and original invoice stated. The previous owner repainted the original yellow with blue paint. He did not replace the hood. 1st owner must have replace ram air induction hood when he replaced the 428 with a 351W. That is also when the transmission was replaced. The current transmission doesn’t match to a 428 but a 351.
So many numbers and letters!! How do you keep them straight?!
There SHOULD HAVE BEEN blue paint!
I have stripper on the drivers side door now.
Could the have not painted the inside of the hood?
Plus, I know from pictures that Oz Gosnell totally stripped that car before he painted it yellow in 1992.
That makes sense.
just because you see it in primer does not mean it was stripped down to metal before it was primed.
personally if I was you, I would be more considered about those welds you showed in posts 170 and 171.
Well, thunderchero, for what should I seek?
I know you are seeking answers to why it is a “test” vehicle.
Your Cougar as it sits now has many non-invoice items. Each item needs to be explained.
I am sure I am missing some of the items, but here is my short list, this is what I can recall from memory.
- door and interior panels are from 1970 decore (un-explained)
- high back bucket seats (un-explained)
- eliminator parts (un-explained)
- 351 Cleveland installed (428 replaced by a previous owner)
- Ram air hood missing (previous owner did not want hole in hood without ram air setup)
- many of front end parts/panels have wrong build date (un-explained)
- welds on front fender apron (un-explained)
My suggestion of checking fender apron VIN might explain all above except #4 and #5. I expect you will find a different VIN on fender aprons. My theory is vehicle was in a major front end collision that required those parts to be replaced.
I suspect the owner at the time found an Eliminator as a donor/salvage car (possibly a Boss 302 Eliminator), and transferred Eliminator parts and needed damaged parts to this vehicle.
if fender apron VIN matches was it welded back on replacement panel? Or was damage pulled back out with frame machine and damaged requiring welds? Or are welds there due to typical rust out spots?
As I said before you may need a experienced ford person to do a full inspection like what was done on this vehicle by robert campbell.
Thanks for your fucking encouragement. This was my husband’s car. He committed suicide 16 months ago. I have been trying to to fill a.void. I’ve been trying to fulfill his lifelong dream. I will find another way other than CCOA.
Asshole.
I think the welds are rust repair. Where the front and rear aprons are welded to the tops of the shock towers is a location that rusts. Remember, we are trying to help from far away. If you were close I’d come by and help you document this Cougar.
P.S. I am sorry for the loss of your husband. It can’t be easy to try and pick up and move on no mater how that happened. My X-wife’s mother committed suicide when she was 14. She is 70 now and still working through it.
Intentions can be difficult to discern sometimes on the inter webs. I think you can assume good will here.
We are all old enough now to have traveled through our own dark night of the soul. Although each person’s walk
through the “Valley of the Shadow” is unique, most of us are familiar with its depths. We also know how therapeutic
it is to put one’s self into a major project during those times. We are pulling for you. Your “mission” is a worthy one.
We are saddened by your loss and its pain, but delighted that it lead you here.
sorry for your loss, and I hope you find the answers you are looking for.
Another number…just because my lamp happened to be shining on it!
WB17767
1 31D3
I stand corrected…drivers side:
WB 17767
10 31D2;
passengers side:
WB 17766
10 31D3
This is good news and fills in another piece of the puzzle. Which side did you find this on? The VIN is usually stamped on both sides. It might be time to check the other side for another puzzle piece.
Randy Goodling
CCOA #95
It looks like you are showing the front mounting bracket for the bumper in your photo. They should be painted black, not yellow but must have been painted yellow when the last repaint was done. If the numbers are on that bracket then the 17766 and 17767 numbers are probably a part of the part number. The 10 31 D2 and 10 31 D3 would be the date codes, which would be 10/31 and second and third shift.
Randy Goodling
CCOA #95
Randy, I would just love to take off the passenger side fender…all for the love of matching numbers. It’ll give me a break from taking the dash out…which, coincidentally, IS more difficult than the fender and the starter!!
Yeah, the dash pad is more work than pulling back a fender or removing a starter. Some of the screws for the pad are hidden behind other parts plus you are removing small screws, not the larger bolts on a fender or starter. And then the screw heads are finished in black which blends in with the black dash pad making them harder to see as well. As I recall there are about a dozen screws holding the pad in place. If you run into any trouble pulling the pad just let us know, someone will chime in to help.
Randy Goodling
CCOA #95
