68 out of mothballs

Cougar Community Classic Cougar Maintenance Restoration and Repair
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This is my first post and intended to be both my introduction to the group and first HELP! call. I’m looking forward to being an active member of the group.

I’m a long-time owner and and even longer-time enthusiast. My first “Cougar experience” was as a teen in the late 70’s when the fam owned a '68 XR7 4-speed. Oh, how I wish I still had that (NJ) rust bucket.

Cat stats are in my signature, below. This is an AZ car, about as close to stock and rust-free as any out there. I’m the third owner and used it as a daily driver from 87 through 94. In early 96, I drove it to OH, where it remained – garaged, awaiting restoration – until mid 09. The resto never happened so I trailered it back to AZ in 09. Now, in 15, mileage is 142,817 and I want to get it back on the road, at least short term as a daily driver. My goal is a complete stock restoration in time for its 50th birthday, July 20, 2018!

For now, though, I’m just trying to get it going again. I began by removing and cleaning the fuel tank, rebuilding the sending unit (the float was missing, except for a flimsy narrow brass ring where it clipped into the arm), flushing the fuel lines, replacing the fuel hoses and filter, and adding a pre-pump filter (for good measure). It started, briefly, two weeks ago: ran OK for a few minutes and then began stalling. Turns out the fuel pump was irrigating everything but the carburetor. Now it’s up on stands, sans wheels.

Years ago I rebuilt the front suspension, new clutch, new brakes, and basic general maintenance. All that work paid off: I increased the MPG from 11.7 to 17.3 over about 18 months. Except for the manual drum brakes, that’s all still in OK shape. I’m in the midst of replacing all four wheel cylinders and flushing the lines. It may need a new master cylinder, too.

When I moved the car in 09, I had to make a temporary repair to the clutch equalizer bar. This morning I was preparing to make the permanent fix and install a new firewall boot, so I removed the upper clutch rod. Turns out it wasn’t even secured to the clutch pedal arm because the end of the rod was 1/2 worn away. I checked WCCC for a replacement, but what they offer [http://www2.cougarpartscatalog.com/6770bbupclutchrod.html] is different from what was in the car, which looks exactly like what is shown as Equalizer Rod 7A156 Fig 3, p5-12 of the '68 Shop Manual: a shallow “U” shape, 12-1/2" long center to center each end. (I’d attach a photo but it keeps telling me that my image is 60 pixels too wide, and resizing it doesn’t seem to help.)

My first questions (of many, I’m sure) for everyone here are:

Is my worn clutch rod likely original?
If it is original, why is it different from what everyone is selling for this model year?
Thoughts / Recommendations on where to purchase a replacement? I’ll need end bushings, too.

Thanks.

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Welcome to the forum! Your car has a nice color combination, I like it.

Unfortunately, I can’t answer your question regarding the equalizer rod, sorry.

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I looked at the WCCC site and the upper clutch rod there looks correct. Can you post a picture of yours?

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Thanks, Dennis, for the welcome. Unfortunately, the body needs some minor work, the paint is shot, and the interior has suffered through too many desert summers.

gte428cj, here’s a photo of what came out:

(At least I hope I’ve figured out the photo posting…)

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Guess I need to work harder on the image. Here’s a link:
https://www.dropbox.com/s/e2pizkgvhf92psx/Clutch%20rod.JPG?dl=0

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No vendor has all the parts. Mustangs share many parts with Cougars. I find a lot of parts I need at Mustang part dealers.

You can get this part at National Parts Depot
Mustang part number
7521-4A
Price: $13.95

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Thanks. Since my earlier post I’ve found the part a couple of places; your NPD find is the best price so far. But I’m confused by it being for the 69-70 model years. Armed with this new info, I’m wondering:

What are the chances that this is original to my car (1/2 year early? Dearborn?), or that it’s a PO replacement with what was available and worked?
For those interested in / knowledgeable about stock vehicles, would you replace to match what’s in the car or to match the 68 standard spec?

7/28/2015 EDIT: There’s more to the story, here.

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Anything could have happened to that part over the years. I’d start with the “right” part and work from there. For instance, to accompdate tri Y headers, the clutch rod on my '67 is a cobbled up mish-mash of 65-67 Mustang/Cougar stuff. That will leave someone scratching their head one day…

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Nate welcome to the Classic Cougar Community. I sent you a welcome message that contains a lot of information for new members .
Steven

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Finally got all of the clutch linkage removed and cleaned and most of it needs to be replaced. Going with the correct '68 upper rod. Need to make a minor repair to the equalizer bar lower rod hole, which is worn to an oval. That’ll be done today.

The engine-mounted equalizer bar pivot stud is my current source of confusion. I’ve researched all of the obvious forums and parts suppliers. I didn’t find this specifically addressed in any of the forums and the suppliers’ descriptions and “fit” information is entirely conflicting. :wall: Does anyone know which is the correct engine-mounted pivot part no. for a '68 302 3-speed: C2OA-7A531-B or C5ZZ-7A531-K? How do they differ?

Thanks.

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I think this is what you need:

https://www.mustangsunlimited.com/itemdy01.asp?T1=F1186+01&Category=Drivetrain&subCategory=Clutch+%26+Related&CatKey=Cougar

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Thanks, R Code, for your response. Part of my frustration seems to lie with the fact that many parts suppliers don’t really provide complete / accurate information for their parts. Example: National Parts Depot lists four options for this part, none of which are adequately described. (Not to mention that their ‘assembled’ photos are incorrect: the washer should be between the bolt head and felt washer as backer.)

I finally got myself a 65-72 Lincoln-Mercury MPC, and it identifies C2OZ-7A531-B as the correct item. Guess I’ll order Scott Drake’s C2OZ-7A531-K and compare it against what came out of my 68.

New question: Any suggestions on where to purchase just a couple OEM-correct 3/8-16 x 1-1/8" flange bolts (with the tapered end) to anchor the opposing equalizer bar pivot bracket onto the frame rail? The only source I’ve been able to find is AMK’s (Bulk part B-12721), but I don’t need enough stuff to build a $30 minimum order from them.

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I don’t know if it’ll work on a '68, but here’s a tip that an old hot-rodder gave me years ago, that has worked well on my '69:
Install some Hurst shifter bushings: http://www.summitracing.com/parts/huu-3327302?seid=srese1&gclid=CL7V6-COksYCFYM5aQodqzQAjA where the linkages connect to the Z-bar. The holes in the Z-bar may need to be drilled slightly oversize, but the bushings fit nicely on the linkage rods. (At least on a '69.) Using the Hurst bushings and clips takes out a lot of slop, and the bushings take the wear rather than the Z-bat and linkages. Use plenty of heavy grease when assembling everything, and the improvement over stock is dramatic.
Note: These can be added to the stock Ford shifter linkage, for a nice improvement there, as well.
Bear in mind, its not a one-time and forget it solution, since the bushings do wear out. But they’re much cheaper and easier to replace than the Z-bar or linkage.
Anyway, its something you might want to try while you’re at it.

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Great suggestions, cj750. I like that the Hurst bushings are steel. Unfortunately, I’ve already ordered replacement Ford/Merc (plastic) bushings. I’ll keep your tip in mind when it’s time for the next future replacement. I don’t expect to ever replace the major linkage parts again.

My z-bar linkage holes have been welded solid and marked for re-drilling – just waiting on the bushings to arrive to ensure the correct hole diameter.

Wouldn’t it be nice if there were a public database available that provided accurate dimensions of all parts? A community like this could probably build one up over time.

Another update on the engine-side z-bar pivot. I inquired with NPD and they said that their 7A531-1A part (by ACP, http://www.acpdealer.com/product) is the C2OA-7A531-B repro. It’s on order, too. I’ll still measure / compare when it arrives. [UPDATE: Exact match.]

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Clutch linkage is all back together and working great, though pedal is riding a little high. Looks like I could stand to replace the (compressed) rubber pad on the pedal stop. Anyone know offhand if that’s a readily available repro part?
[UPDATE: Yup, it sure is, courtesy Scott Drake. Search for part no. C7ZZ-7583.]

Brake overhaul completed, too, and working nicely.

Now I’m in the process of rebuilding the 2100 carburetor – C8AF-BD. Tore it down for cleaning and discovered that the air horn is cracked around the small nob at the top rear:

I don’t think this will impact performance, but still… Might anyone have an air horn casting laying about that’s looking for a new home? Or should I start hunting in local salvage yards?

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Completed the carb rebuild a couple days ago. The engine is now tuned as close to specs as I can get it without test-verifying the fuel/air mixture and runs the best I can remember it ever running. :smiley:

Still searching for a new air horn and, unfortunately, a new fuel bowl vent rod (C6TZ-9A515-B), which I broke :angry: :blush: when making what was to be the very last adjustment. Contacted a local carb shop; they’re checking their core stock to see if any extra bits are available.

The only other thing that seems to not work ignition-wise is the retard half of the distributor dual vacuum control assembly (D2PZ-12370-L). I’ll get a replacement ASAP. Hopefully, that won’t be a problem when I stop in for a state emissions check today or tomorrow.

Yesterday I worked on the sequential turn signals. A general cleaning & lubrication of the motorized cam internals, cleaning of various points, adjustment of the emergency flasher relay points, cleaning of all the harness connectors, and a couple new bulbs has them working consistently again. Also rediscovered that the spare 13350 Flasher /13A366 Relay assembly I pulled out of a junk yard years ago is actually from a '67 (3 cam flasher). If anyone has a complete '68 4-cam flasher/relay assembly they’d like to make an even swap for, PM me.

For future reference, does anyone know if Autolite’s original manufacturing drawings / specs for the flasher &/or relay are available? If so, I’d be interested in sourcing some replacement contact points. (Ditto for the electro-mechanical voltage regulator.)

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I’m pleased to share that my Cougar passed state emissions yesterday on the first idle test. It’s registered and street legal now --fully “out of mothballs”-- so I think this is a good time to end this topic thread. I may start a new one in The Project Forum as there’s plenty more work to do.

Thanks to all for your feedback and suggestions!